Ashley Khirea Wahba

she/her

Brooklyn, NY, USA

Ashley Khirea Wahba is an Egyptian-American artist, jeweler, and academic based in Brooklyn, NY. She, for some reason, went to art school for both a BFA and MA in jewelry, where she became disillusioned and furious with the art world– especially the world of contemporary jewelry which, at that time, was particularly pretentious, for the rich, lacking in diverse representation, rife with gatekeeping, and always dependent on fake deep wall texts.

Her brand, Khirea Jewels, began as an act of rebellion when she started creating pendants that quickly grew in popularity and notoriety. They functioned as a way of saying fuck you to the traditions of fine jewelry engraving, to the pretentiousness of contemporary jewelry, and to the unethical production of fashion jewelry. She continues to bring this ethos into every piece she creates today.

Outside of the studio she teaches, writes, and lectures, and is unrelentingly disruptive.

“I began this body of work in grad school when a professor declared *my* work should be bigger and more ‘gaudy.’ I laid out pinbacks on a bed of glitter and got to work with hot glue and rage and whatever shiny things were laying around my bench.
I revisited the work this spring using mass produced findings, but since shortly after I’ve had a post-it on my wall that reads ‘Make glitter shitshows valid.’ I would retrofit them to become more acceptable for the Contemporary Art Jewelry™ world, so they could respect glitter and hot glue, as a treat.”

khirea.com

@khirea_jewels

NYCJW24 @ UrbanGlass, Simon Leung

How does your work relate to the theme connection?

“I’m exploring my connection to The Contemporary Art Jewelry™ World via methods of connection, building into and around perhaps some of our most maligned materials.

This work began while in grad school I came to terms with how alienating I found our niche little field. My energy shifted from studio art to focusing on ‘products’ while engaging in more academic work about representation. I’m now re-exploring my relationship to contemporary jewelry– the diversity within our field is beginning to expand and I am starting to feel a sense of connection with it again.

This body of work first started when I began to explore more production-type jewelry as a grad student in art school. I received feedback from my mentor that was offensive and insensitive about why my new work wasn’t ‘louder’ and more ‘gaudy’. I created some rage pieces with hot glue and glitter and diamante chain and Swarovski and emojis and weed leaf imagery, etc. (Naturally, the pieces ended up being well-received and so basically I’m not sure if I failed or not.)

Several months ago, I was invited to participate in a show in which the curator insisted I send over ‘whatever [I] want’. I was in A Mood™ and decided to revisit my glittery rage. This time, I embedded mass produced chain and findings in the hot glue. I’m lucky I sent backup work because the glitter shitshows weren’t exhibited.

Since then, I’ve had a post-it on my wall that reads ‘Make glitter shitshows valid,’ as in, valid in the eyes of the contemporary jewelry world. The intention was to revisit these exact pieces, retrofitting from mass produced chains and findings embedded in hot glue to more Noble and Acceptable methods of connecting to the body. Naturally, this meant more metal work– more silver, prongs, patina, and general presence of the hand. Make them brooches, because what is more respected in the contemporary jewelry world, what is a better way to connect back, than The Brooch?”

"A Totally Valid Brooch I",  Glitter, hot melt adhesive, sterling silver, diamante chain, Swarovski crystals, pink tourmaline, vintage rhinestones, titanium piercings, steel wire, 10.2" x 2.8" x 1.2", 2024

What role does connection play in your creative process?

“My work has historically been very ‘Iykyk’ ‘if you don’t get it it’s not for you’. I don’t particularly set out to do this, I try to remain as authentic and in touch with my own self as possible, so I’m grateful that its served as a way to include those of us who often feel excluded or unseen, and those who feel they need to tone a part of themself down in order to be respected in a professional or social realm. My clients consistently tell me that the jewelry I make allows them to feel like they are retaining a piece of their authentic self even at times where they have to code switch in one way or another, that it’s been a form of signaling to others, or that it has served as means of empowerment– from the professor who tucked a ‘Fuck You Pay Me’ pendant into her shirt, to the woman who went to her white collar job with a ‘I Can’t Stand You Hoes,’ to the lovers who met because of a Rush, to the comrade who began wearing a ‘Fuck 12’ after the dehumanizing experience of being arrested for protesting.
When I’m my authentic self and create work from that place connection, it allows me to connect with others who can further connect with their own authentic selves as well."

"A Totally Valid Brooch II", Glitter, hot melt adhesive, sterling silver, brass, diamante chain, Swarovski crystals, vintage rhinestones, titanium piercings, pewter, steel wire, 8.1" x 3.1" x 1.1", 2024

NYCJW24 @ UrbanGlass, Francely Flores

“My queer experience extends beyond just my gender or sexuality– it has introduced a new framework through which I can see the world and my relationship within, what Audre Lorde called our ‘imperialist capitalist white supremacist heteropatriarchy.’

Of course, not all queer people are leftist by nature, but many leftists happen to be queer. Other queer leftists have radicalized me and changed the way I see the world– capitalism and resulting class relations, law, healthcare, workers rights, housing rights, climate change, geopolitics, etc etc etc. Capitalism is the overarching violent structure that others queerness and endangers all marginalized people. For me, as a rule, it has only been queer friends who have connected me to ways of thinking that dominant culture and ruling classes would rather us ignore.

My work is constantly in tension with academia’s hierarchies, fashion jewelry’s disregard for the ecosystem and human life, and fine jewelry’s inherent value of wealth and displays of wealth, and, frankly, my queerness is the reason I am able to see these things clearly and rise against them.”

What connection(s) does your queerness make to the world around you?

A Totally Valid Brooch III", Glitter, hot melt adhesive, sterling silver, brass, 14kt gold, diamante chain, Swarovski crystals, pink tourmaline, alexandrite, vintage rhinestones, titanium piercings, steel wire, 6.5" x 3.5" x 1.2", 2024

[queerphoria]v4 @ ECU Symposium